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Mantle

ca. 1909 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This long evening mantle made of purple silk, is embroidered with flowers in shades of pink, blue, white and green. It has a dark blue velvet band on the front and at both wrists. The mantle is gathered at the front and at the back where a flower made of purple silk is applied.

The mantle was made by the House of Worth in about 1909. After the death of the founder Charles-Frederik in 1895, his son Jean-Phlippe took charge of the artistic direction of the company. A man of refined taste, Jean-Philippe had studied painting with Corot and showed a strong interest in the many artistic movements arising at the beginning of the 20th century.

The mantle shows the influence that trends in art such as Fauvism and Japonism had on colours and fashion styles during this period. Another powerful influence on fashion was Les Ballets Russes, with their costumes for productions such as Scheherezade introducing bold use of colour and non-European silhouettes.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Hand-embroidered silk and hand-sewn velvet
Brief description
Hand-embroidered mantle, House of Worth, Paris, ca. 1909.
Physical description
Mantle made from purple taffeta with a large Japanese style floral design in shades of pink, maroon, turquoise, white and gold. The band, collar and cuffs are of purple silk velvet.
The coat is full-length, the sleeves cut in one with the body of the coat. The front drapes across to fasten at the low waist with a self-covered button, the fastening trimmed with two bead tassels. A gathered flounce runs from under the armhole to the knee in front, forming a slightly gathered skirt. The back is draped from a rosette, in the small of the back.
The coat is lined with purple chiffon, mounted on white chiffon.
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Credit line
Given by Lord and Lady Cowdray
Summary
This long evening mantle made of purple silk, is embroidered with flowers in shades of pink, blue, white and green. It has a dark blue velvet band on the front and at both wrists. The mantle is gathered at the front and at the back where a flower made of purple silk is applied.

The mantle was made by the House of Worth in about 1909. After the death of the founder Charles-Frederik in 1895, his son Jean-Phlippe took charge of the artistic direction of the company. A man of refined taste, Jean-Philippe had studied painting with Corot and showed a strong interest in the many artistic movements arising at the beginning of the 20th century.

The mantle shows the influence that trends in art such as Fauvism and Japonism had on colours and fashion styles during this period. Another powerful influence on fashion was Les Ballets Russes, with their costumes for productions such as Scheherezade introducing bold use of colour and non-European silhouettes.
Collection
Accession number
T.207-1970

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Record createdMarch 21, 2005
Record URL
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