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Mantle
  • Mantle
    Jean-Philippe Worth, born 1856 - died 1926
  • Enlarge image

Mantle

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1909 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Jean-Philippe Worth, born 1856 - died 1926 (designer)
    Worth (designed for)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Hand-embroidered silk and hand-sewn velvet

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Lord and Lady Cowdray

  • Museum number:

    T.207-1970

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This long evening mantle made of purple silk, is embroidered with flowers in shades of pink, blue, white and green. It has a dark blue velvet band on the front and at both wrists. The mantle is gathered at the front and at the back where a flower made of purple silk is applied.

The mantle was made by the House of Worth in about 1909. After the death of the founder Charles-Frederik in 1895, his son Jean-Phlippe took charge of the artistic direction of the company. A man of refined taste, Jean-Philippe had studied painting with Corot and showed a strong interest in the many artistic movements arising at the beginning of the 20th century.

The mantle shows the influence Fauvism and Japonism had on colours and fashion styles during this period. Another powerful influence on fashion was Les Ballets Russes, with their Oriental-inspired themes and costumes. Evening mantles, such as this one, would become increasing fashionable especially during the early 1920s, when the public responded to the rage for anything Oriental.

Physical description

Mantle made from purple taffeta with a large Japanese style floral design in shades of pink, maroon, turquoise, white and gold. The band, collar and cuffs are of purple silk velvet.
The coat is full-length, the sleeves cut in one with the body of the coat. The front drapes across to fasten at the low waist with a self-covered button, the fastening trimmed with two bead tassels. A gathered flounce runs from under the armhole to the knee in front, forming a slightly gathered skirt. The back is draped from a rosette, in the small of the back.
The coat is lined with purple chiffon, mounted on white chiffon.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

ca. 1909 (designed)

Artist/maker

Jean-Philippe Worth, born 1856 - died 1926 (designer)
Worth (designed for)

Materials and Techniques

Hand-embroidered silk and hand-sewn velvet

Object history note

The mantle was made by the House of Worth in about 1909. After the death of his founder Charles-Frederick in 1895, his son Jean-Philippe took charge of the artistic direction of the House of Worth. A man of refined taste, Jean-Philippe had studied painting with Corot and showed a strong interest in the many artistic movements arising at the beginning of the new century.

The mantle shows the influence the artistic movements Fauvism and Japonism had on colours and fashion styles during this period. Another powerful influence on fashion was Les Ballets Russes, with their Oriental-inspired themes and costumes.
Evening mantles, such as this one, would become increasing fashionable especially during the early 1920s, when they responded to the rage for anything Oriental.

Descriptive line

Hand-embroidered mantle, House of Worth, Paris, ca. 1909.

Materials

Silk; Velvet

Techniques

Embroidered

Categories

Fashion; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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