Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) had set up in business there in 1937 in partnership with the hat designer Vladzio d'Attainville. At its height, the business had four dress-making, four tailoring and two millinery workshops.
Hats were made bespoke to complete couture clients' outfits. The etiquette of the period dictated that hats be worn on all formal occasions, even when going out for a meal in a restaurant or to a performance at the theatre. Elaborate hats such as this example would have been worn to cocktail parties or to dinner.
Gloria Guinness, to whom this hat belonged, commented: 'hats must be made on your head. A ready-made hat will not be you! While I am sitting for a dress, I sit ten minutes longer, and Monsieur Balenciaga works on a hat.'
Physical description
Cap of black sheared ostrich feathers trimmed with two pompoms. Inside there is an attached comb.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1955-1960 (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Sheared ostrich feathers
Marks and inscriptions
'BALENCIAGA, 10 Avenue George V, Paris'
Object history note
Worn and given by Mrs Loel Guinness
Historical context note
Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912 - 1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.
Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. Her only child, Countess Dolores von Fürstenberg -Herdringen (born in 1936) married her stepbrother Patrick Guinness.
She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Descriptive line
Hat with ostrich feathers, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955-1960.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Cecil Beaton, Fashion: an anthology (London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1972)
Beaton catalogue number 284
Time magazine, January 26 1962
'Having a Marvelous Time'
When the New York Couture Group's stable of fashion "experts" named Jacqueline Kennedy No. 1 among the world's best-dressed women, there was little surprise: they like publicity; Jackie is news. She spends a lot on clothing and obviously has style. No. 2 was a name far less familiar—Mrs. Loel Guinness... [etc]
Exhibition History
Hats An Anthology by Stephen Jones (Victoria and Albert Museum 24/02/2009-31/05/2009)
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Hommage a Balenciaga (Musee des Tissus, Lyon 01/01/1985-31/12/1986)
Labels and date
Hats
Hats were regarded as the finishing touch to an outfit. A wide choice was available, from large picture hats to tiny, feathered creations that perched on the head, secured only with a hat pin. [34 words]
1. Yellow and black feathers
Paulette (Paulette Marchand, 1900-84)
Paris
1950s
Worn by Mrs Opal Holt, and given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark
V&A: T.151-1982
2. Horsehair hat trimmed with fabric rosebuds
Simone Mirman
London
1953
Worn by Doris Langley Moore
V&A: T.113-1980
3. Pink velvet
Aage Thaarup (1906-87)
London
1950s
Given by Mrs Blair Cook
V&A: T.255-1985
4. Black ostrich feather
Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972)
Paris
About 1955
Given by Mrs Loel Guinness
V&A: T.60-1974
4. Yellow straw
Jacques Heim (1899-1967)
1950s
Given by Mrs Vivienne Lawrie
V&A: T.370-1996 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Guinness, Loel; Cecil Beaton
Materials
Ostrich feather
Categories
Fashion; Accessories; Hats & headwear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
