Jacket
- Place of origin:
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
Crewel work on cotton and linen twill ground; stem stitch with long, short and coral stitches and French knots
- Museum number:
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A mythical bird is just one of the fanciful creatures that populate this embroidered jacket of the 1630s. Worked in red wool on a thick twill of linen warp and cotton weft, the coarseness of the thread and heaviness of the ground lack the delicacy of similar garments embroidered in silk on finer linen, but overall the work has a certain enchanting vitality. The design shows a development in later Jacobean needlework – the scrolling vines seen on jackets of the first two decades of the 17th century have disappeared. Each motif is worked separately, while retaining the curvilinear dynamism typical of Jacobean embroidery. During the later 17th century, this type of needlework, known as crewel work, grew in popularity. It became an important method of decorating household furnishings, particularly bed curtains and valances.
Physical description
Bodice, embroidered with red crewel-work on twill ground; outlines in stem stitch, filling in long and short and coral stitches and French knots.
Formerly laced down the front, probably with a stomacher. Comperes of the same material afterwards added, with two ties. Much shaped to the body; flare below the waist with three gores on each side, lace fringe round the bottom except for strip on each side at the front. Full sleeves, not full length, plain edge at the wrist. Lining added round the neck.
The embroidery consists of individual sprigs with flowers and fruit, animals and birds, real and imaginary, and butterflies.
Place of Origin
England
Date
1630s (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Crewel work on cotton and linen twill ground; stem stitch with long, short and coral stitches and French knots
Dimensions
Length: 18 in (sleeve, outer seam)
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Hart & North, 'Historic Dress in Detail' (V&A: V&A Publications, 1998), p.150.
"This mythical bird is just one of the delightful creatures that populate an embroidered jacket of the 1630s. Worked in red wool on a thick twill of linen warp and cotton weft, the coarseness of the thread and heaviness of the ground lack the delicacy of similar garments embroidered in silk on finer linen, but overall the work has a certain enchanting vitality. The design shows a development in later Jacobean needlework - the scrolling vines seen on jackets of the first two decades of the 17th century have disappeared. Each motif is worked separately, while retaining the curvilinear dynamism typical of Jacobean embroidery. During the later 17th century, this type of needlework, known as crewel work, grew in popularity. It became a principle method of decorating household furnishings, particularly bed curtains and valances."
Materials
Linen; Cotton
Techniques
Hand embroidery; Twill weave; Crewel
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Birds; Fruit; Butterflies
Categories
Fashion; Clothing; Embroidery
Production Type and Product Note
Unique
Collection code
T&D
