Calverley Toilet Service

Object Type
The term 'toilet service' refers to the mirror, boxes and dishes that were found on a lady's dressing table in the 17th and 18th centuries. The mirror is made of embossed and cast silver fixed over a wooden frame. It would have been used when arranging a hair-style and applying make-up. The silver is embossed with acanthus leaves and the top portion shows the ancient Greek myth of Phaeton pleading with his father Helios, the sun-god, to allow him to drive his chariot. Glass was still very expensive and this would have been a valued item.

People
A silver toilet service was often a gift to a bride from a wealthy groom. This mirror is part of a service (Museum nos. 240&A to M-1879) that was bought for Julia Blackett, the eldest daughter of Sir William Blackett, by her intended husband Sir Walter Calverley. This is recorded in his diary: 'On Tuesday, the 17th of January, 1706-7 I was married to Miss Julia Blackett...I and my mother were at the cost of a fine set of dressing plate for my wife, came to 116l. odd money...'.

Recent research has identified the silversmith, whose mark 'WF' is found on this service, as William Fowle (1658-1684). He was apprenticed to the well-known silversmith, Arthur Manwaring, and went into business independently in 1681. He specialised in making toilet services.

Social Class
Matching sets of toilet silver originated in 17th-century France in conjunction with the custom of the levée. This was a practice popular among the upper classes, in which friends and family would be invited to witness the dressing and adornment of noble ladies.