Evening cape
- Place of origin:
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
- Materials and Techniques:
- Credit Line:
Given by Mrs Loel Guinness
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Image in copyright
This evening cape by Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972) is made from white gazar. It is double-breasted with four covered buttons and has a deep flounce seam and inset pocket in the flounce. It was designed to be worn with matching dress and is typical of the pared-down elegance of his creations of the 1960s.
Born in Spain, Balenciaga moved to Paris to set up a successful business as a couturier in 1937 in the heart of the Golden Triangle (the centre of the production and consumption of luxury goods). By the time he designed this cape in 1963 he had been considered the master of couture for some years, renowned for his innovative cut, his consummate skill in design, and his perfectionism.
Balenciaga collaborated with textile manufacturers in the development of new fabrics. Gazar was the result of his working relationship with the Swiss textile manufacturer Abraham. It is made of silk and has good body, thus lending itself to sculptural designs.
Gloria Guinness (née Rubio y Alatorre) had this cape made. She was a regular patron of Balenciaga's establishment in Paris. An elegant socialite and writer of the mid-20th century, she married three times, her final husband being Group Captain Thomas Loel Guinness MP, heir to the Guinness beer fortune.
Physical description
Double-breasted evening cape of white gazar. It has a deep flounce seam, an inset pocket in the flounce and with four covered buttons.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
February 1963 (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk gazar
Marks and inscriptions
'Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris'
'86326'
Dimensions
Width: 40 cm shoulder to shoulder, Length: 102 cm nape to hem, Diameter: 100 cm footprint diameter
Object history note
Worn and given by Gloria Guinness
Historical context note
Gloria Guinness (nee Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, 1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.
Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune.
She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962 behind Jackie Kennedy in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
She owned seven homes, with a full wardrobe in each so that she would never have to pack or wait at customs. She spread her patronage widely, and amongst donations to the V&A of pieces by Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy etc., are pieces by lesser known couturiers such as Chaumont and Lafaurie.
Descriptive line
Gazar evening cape, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, February 1963.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Cecil Beaton, Fashion: an anthology (London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1972)
Beaton catalogue number 22
Hommage à Balenciaga. Lyon: Musée Historique des Tissus, September 1985-January 1986, Cat. no. 144
Exhibition History
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Balenciaga Paris (Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, Musee de la Mode et du Textile 06/07/2006-28/01/2007)
Hommage a Balenciaga (Musee des Tissus, Lyon 01/01/1985-31/12/1986)
Associated names
Guinness, Loel; Cecil Beaton
Materials
Gazar silk
Techniques
Weaving
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
