Gazar evening cape, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, February 1963.

Evening cape of white gazar with double-breasted appearance. There are two vertical darts on the front, either side of the fastening, to shape the bodice. The back of the bodice is made from a single piece of gazar, its front is made from two pieces. The pleated skirt is separate from the bodice and is made from four pieces of gazar. The skirt is wider at the back than at the front. On the inside, a small strip of stiff nylon net is sewn to the uppermost part of the skirt, where it meets the bottom of the bodice. This part is folded over inside and stitched to the bodice. The top of the skirt is pleated, which gives the cape its distinctive shape. The wearer's arms emerge from horizontal slits between the bodice and the skirt. The slits were made by folding a part of the bodice upwards, on the inside, and stitching it in place. On the front of the bodice are four covered buttons, only two of which are functional. On the inside are two poppers at the top and two hooks at the bottom, to hold the cape straight. On the front of the skirt are two vertical slit pockets, partially concealed in the skirt's folds. The pockets have been made on the grain of the fabric, which stabilises it. The white satin lining is mounted to the inside rather than fitted, it is not padded. All inside seams are edged with a narrow band of white satin.

Given by Mrs Loel Guinness

Worn and given by Gloria Guinness [70/3752F]

Gloria Guinness (nee Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, 1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.

Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune.

She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962 behind Jackie Kennedy in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)

She owned seven homes, with a full wardrobe in each so that she would never have to pack or wait at customs. She spread her patronage widely, and amongst donations to the V&A of pieces by Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy etc., are pieces by lesser known couturiers such as Chaumont and Lafaurie.

This evening cape by Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972) is made from white gazar. It is double-breasted with four covered buttons and has a deep flounce seam and inset pocket in the flounce. It was designed to be worn with matching dress and is typical of the pared-down elegance of his creations of the 1960s.

Born in Spain, Balenciaga moved to Paris to set up a successful business as a couturier in 1937 in the heart of the Golden Triangle (the centre of the production and consumption of luxury goods). By the time he designed this cape in 1963 he had been considered the master of couture for some years, renowned for his innovative cut, his consummate skill in design, and his perfectionism.

Balenciaga collaborated with textile manufacturers in the development of new fabrics. Gazar was the result of his working relationship with the Swiss textile manufacturer Abraham. It is made of silk and has good body, thus lending itself to sculptural designs.

Gloria Guinness (née Rubio y Alatorre) had this cape made. She was a regular patron of Balenciaga's establishment in Paris. An elegant socialite and writer of the mid-20th century, she married three times, her final husband being Group Captain Thomas Loel Guinness MP, heir to the Guinness beer fortune.

T.31-1974