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Textile fragment

Textile fragment

  • Place of origin:

    Italy (made)

  • Date:

    late 14th century (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk velvet brocaded with gold

  • Museum number:

    882-1899

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

Tartan velvet with six colours of cut silk pile, brocaded with gold. The 'tartan' pattern is formed by vertical stripes of uneven thickness of six colours of pile warp ordered as follows: 2 white, 2 brown, 3 pale blue, 2 brown, 2 white, 30 apricot, repeating the thin stripes of white, brown and blue warps, followed by 31 green warps, then the thin stripes again and 29 mauve warps. These pile warps are voided at intervals to allow the insertion of stripes of brocading wefts, where these metallic stripes occurs, one thicker, flanked by two thinner ones, the silk is woven in a double cloth construction. The metallic wefts are bound in a weft-faced chevron twill. The metallic wefts are made of gilded membrane wound in S around a silk or linen core.
The ground is woven in a weave derived from plain weave, which each tuft of pile secured by three ground wefts squeezed together in the same shed.

Place of Origin

Italy (made)

Date

late 14th century (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk velvet brocaded with gold

Dimensions

Height: 9 cm, Width: 15.9 cm

Descriptive line

Tartan velvet of cut silk pile brocaded with gold.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Monnas, Lisa, 'Developments in figured velvet weaving in Italy during the 14th century' in Bulletin de Liaison du Centre International D'étude des Textiles Anciens (Lyon: CIETA, no 63-64, 1986), pp.63-100.

Materials

Silk velvet; Gold

Techniques

Cut velvet; Brocading

Categories

Textiles

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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