Not currently on display at the V&A

Pair of Armlets

ca. 1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These armlets were acquired by the Indian Museum in London in 1855, possibly from the Paris Exposition Universelle (Universal Exhibition) of that year, as examples of jewellery from Delhi. They would have been worn on the upper arm, and are set with the auspicious nine-stone (navaratna) setting of Indian jewellery made in the Hindu tradition. In the ancient Sanskrit texts dealing with precious and semi-precious stones, the Ratnashastras, there are nine stones which have formed the essential basis of study ever since. They are divided into two sections, the maharatnani, or "great" gems (diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire and emerald) and the uparatnani, or "lesser" gems (jacinth, topaz, cat's eye and coral, though these may vary). The stones are in turn linked to the celestial deities of the Hindu universe: diamond, for example, is linked with Venus, and the ruby with the sun. Each planet may have a good or bad influence, and the stones are arranged in jewellery so that the malevolent influences are kept away, and the benign influences are attracted to the wearer. The stones chosen for these armlets include moonstone, pearl, ruby, turquoise, coral, acquamarine, diamond, orange sapphire, white sapphire and hessonite. One has nine rubies at its centre; the other has a diamond surrounded by stones that are probably white sapphires.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Armlet
  • Armlet
Materials and techniques
Gold enamelled set with precious and semi-precious stones
Brief description
Pair of armlets set with nine stones, Delhi, India; ca. 1850
Physical description
Pair of armlets. Each has a rectangular enamelled gold plaque set with nine stones (navaratna) and diamonds. The stones used vary slightly on each armlet and include moonstone, pearl, ruby, turquoise, coral, aquamarine, diamond, orange sapphire, white sapphire and hessonite. One has nine rubies at its centre; the other has a diamond surrounded by what are probably white sapphires. The backs of the plaques are enamelled in translucent green The armlets would have been worn on the upper arm, fastened by means of their red cotton ties; the ends next to the loops of the plaques are bound with gilt silver thread.
Dimensions
  • Width: 6.3cm
  • Height: 3.1cm
Object history
These armlets were acquired by the Indian Museum in 1855, possibly from the Paris exhibition of that year. They would have been worn on the upper arm and are each set with the auspicious navaratna.
Summary
These armlets were acquired by the Indian Museum in London in 1855, possibly from the Paris Exposition Universelle (Universal Exhibition) of that year, as examples of jewellery from Delhi. They would have been worn on the upper arm, and are set with the auspicious nine-stone (navaratna) setting of Indian jewellery made in the Hindu tradition. In the ancient Sanskrit texts dealing with precious and semi-precious stones, the Ratnashastras, there are nine stones which have formed the essential basis of study ever since. They are divided into two sections, the maharatnani, or "great" gems (diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire and emerald) and the uparatnani, or "lesser" gems (jacinth, topaz, cat's eye and coral, though these may vary). The stones are in turn linked to the celestial deities of the Hindu universe: diamond, for example, is linked with Venus, and the ruby with the sun. Each planet may have a good or bad influence, and the stones are arranged in jewellery so that the malevolent influences are kept away, and the benign influences are attracted to the wearer. The stones chosen for these armlets include moonstone, pearl, ruby, turquoise, coral, acquamarine, diamond, orange sapphire, white sapphire and hessonite. One has nine rubies at its centre; the other has a diamond surrounded by stones that are probably white sapphires.
Bibliographic reference
Susan Stronge, Nima Smith, and J.C. Harle. A Golden Treasury : Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent London : Victoria and Albert Museum in association with Mapin Publishing, Ahmedabad, 1988. ISBN: 0944142168 p.89
Collection
Accession number
03199&A/(IS)

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Record createdFebruary 24, 2005
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