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Not currently on display at the V&A

Coat

August 1960 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish born couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), ‘the Master’ to his fellow couture designers, had moved to Paris from Spain in 1937. By 1952 he had 232 employees and his house produced 356 new designs per year. His clients, admitted to his salon only after a personal introduction, included many cosmopolitan women of different nationalities. Some dressed exclusively in his clothes.

Balenciaga was a perfectionist in all aspects of cutting, sewing and finishing of garments. This evening coat typifies the superb cut and increasingly monastic simplicity of his designs in the late 1950s and into the 1960s. Its only accent is the large glittering jet button. The shapes of such garments owed much to his knowledge of ecclesiastical vestments.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk satin
Brief description
Silk satin evening coat, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, August 1960.
Physical description
Dark grey coat of silk satin with three quarter kimon sleeves, full back of impressed pleats and a deep stand-up collar. It fastens with faceted jet button.
Dimensions
  • Length: 104.2cm (Note: length from nape of neck to hem at centre back)
  • Length: 58.6cm (Note: length from neckline seam to sleeve hem, proper left)
  • Length: 58.9cm (Note: length from neckline seam to sleeve hem, proper right)
  • Depth: 22.5cm (Note: depth of collar at centre to hem (when flat))
  • Height: 10.5cm (Note: height of collar at centre back (when bent))
  • Width: 209.4cm (Note: maximum width of skirt at hem (measurement taken from the inside))
  • Width: 44cm (Note: maximum width of front skirt panel by bottom hem at proper left and proper right )
  • Width: 60.7cm (Note: maximum width of back skirt panel by bottom hem at proper left and proper right)
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
  • Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris (Label; black on white)
  • 74.943 (No. written on back of label)
Gallery label
Evening dress and coat (robe du soir) Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) Paris 1952 and 1960 The gown shows Balenciaga's preference for stiff, matt fabrics, while the heavy satin coat epitomises the superb cut and monastic simplicity of his designs. Its only accent is a large glittering jet button. [32 words] Dress: nylon organza with velvet spots Coat: satin with jet button Dress given by Mrs Catherine Hunt; coat by Baroness Alain de Rothschild V&A: T.116-1970; T.20-1974(22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Credit line
Given by Baroness Alain de Rothschild
Object history
Worn and given by Baroness Alain de Rothschild.

Mary Germaine Nathalie (nee Chauvin de Treuil), Baronne de Rothschild (1916- ), wife of banker Baron Alain de Rothschild. She was a very fashionable woman in Parisian society, known to Beaton from the international circuit. Beaton persuaded the Baroness to donate some of her dresses to the museum, and sketches he did of her are held at the National Portrait Gallery.

Registered File number: RP/1970/3752
Association
Summary
Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish born couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), ‘the Master’ to his fellow couture designers, had moved to Paris from Spain in 1937. By 1952 he had 232 employees and his house produced 356 new designs per year. His clients, admitted to his salon only after a personal introduction, included many cosmopolitan women of different nationalities. Some dressed exclusively in his clothes.

Balenciaga was a perfectionist in all aspects of cutting, sewing and finishing of garments. This evening coat typifies the superb cut and increasingly monastic simplicity of his designs in the late 1950s and into the 1960s. Its only accent is the large glittering jet button. The shapes of such garments owed much to his knowledge of ecclesiastical vestments.
Bibliographic references
  • Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971
  • Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.158 and pl.7.2, p.165
Other numbers
  • 98 - Model number
  • 74.943 - Number on label
Collection
Accession number
T.20-1974

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Record createdFebruary 21, 2005
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