Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), regarded by his peers as ‘the Master’, had moved to Paris from Spain in 1937. By 1952 he had 232 employees there and was producing 356 new designs per year. His clients, admitted to his salon only after a personal introduction, included many cosmopolitan women of different nationalities. Gloria Guinness (1912-80), who donated this dress to the V&A, was one of Balenciaga’s most loyal customers.
The style of this dress reflects the exaggerated padded hip shape of the ‘New Look’ made famous by Balenciaga’s contemporary, Christian Dior (1905-57). However, its sombre black, and pared down design is very typical of Balenciaga, who was inspired by Spanish religious dress and the paintings of clerics by Francisco de Zurbarán (1598–1664).
Physical description
Evening dress of black organdie with self-coloured flock flowers. The dress has a low round neck, elbow-length sleeves and is a princess line with a full skirt.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1948 (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Flocked silk organdie
Marks and inscriptions
'Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris'
46423
Dimensions
Circumference: 84 cm Bust, Circumference: 66 cm Waist, Diameter: 67 cm Hem
Object history note
Worn and given by Gloria Guiness.
The date is attributed to Autumn 1953 by Mme. Jouve - former Balenciaga house archivist. The chronological house numbering system (46423) suggests that it is an earlier design, ca. 1948. Stylistically it could be late 1940s.
Historical context note
Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.
Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune.
She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Descriptive line
Evening dress of flocked silk organdie, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1948.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Cecil Beaton, Fashion: an anthology (London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1971)
Beaton Catalogue no. 8
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.169 and pl.7.12 & 7.13
Mrs Loel Guinness (1913-80) had an extraordinary life. Born in Mexico as Gloria Rubio, her first husband was a Count Furstenberg, to whom she was married at the behest of the German art collector, Freddy Horstmann. Her second husband was an Egyptian by the name of Fakhry, and her third husband, the banker Loel Guinness. In many ways she was unhappy as his wife, as she loved to party and he did not. She gave an enormous number of items from Balenciaga, Dior, Courreges, Lanvin Castillo, Givenchy, and Jeanne Lafaurie, proving that she spread her commissions amongst many different couturiers. Among the 17 outfits, 12 hats and pairs of shoes that she donated were a 1948 Balenciaga evening gown (T.16-1974) of organdie with flack flowers, a 1949 hand-painted evening gown by Marcelle Chaumont (T.92-1974), and a 1950s evening gown by Jeanne Lafaurie (T.281-1974), the only dress by that designer in the V&A's collection.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1971-31/12/1971)
Labels and date
Evening dress (robe du soir)
Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972)
Paris
1948
Balenciaga inspired devotion and respect from his clients. This dress was made for the stylish and wealthy Gloria Guinness, who admitted to being 'a little afraid of not being good enough for the clothes.'
Silk organdie, flocked
Given by Mrs Gloria Guinness
V&A: T.16-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Materials
Organdie
Techniques
Flocking
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Clothing; Fashion; Evening wear
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
