Evening dress
- Place of origin:
- Date:
spring/summer 1952 (made)
- Artist/Maker:
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (probably, designer)
Bucol (possibly, textile designers)
- Materials and Techniques:
Nylon organza with velvet, lined with silk
- Credit Line:
Given by Miss Catherine Hunt
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Image in copyright
Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), regarded by his peers as ‘the Master’, had moved to Paris from Spain in 1937. By 1952 he had 232 employees there and was producing 356 new designs per year. His clients, admitted to his salon only after a personal introduction, included many cosmopolitan women of different nationalities.
Balenciaga was a perfectionist in cutting, sewing and finishing garments, and was renowned for his exacting standards. The dress, shown here as it was displayed for the V&A’s 2007 exhibition, The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957, reveals Balenciaga's preference for stiff, matte fabrics and his liking for the sombre black of the dress of the Spanish clergy - both contemporary and as depicted in the paintings of his fellow countryman, the artist Francisco de Zurbarán (1598–1664).
Physical description
Evening dress of stiff black nylon organza with an all over pattern of black velvet spots. The dress is full length, with a low heart shaped neckline and cap sleeves. There is a high waistline just under the bust in front. The dress is fitted to a tight waist and flares from there to the ground. It is cut in two panels at the front and four a the back to make it more fully flared. The dress fastens with a metal and linen zip from the end of the sleeve which is closed with 2 black metal hooks and eyes, to the hip. It is lined with black silk taffeta stitched inside the bodice, loose inside the skirt. A band of nylon stiffening is stitched around the skirt at hip level.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
spring/summer 1952 (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (probably, designer)
Bucol (possibly, textile designers)
Materials and Techniques
Nylon organza with velvet, lined with silk
Marks and inscriptions
No label
Dimensions
Weight: 1.3 kg
Object history note
Worn by Martita Hunt and given by her sister following her death. Martita Hunt (1900–1969) was a British theatre and film actress.
This is part of a large bequest of clothing and jewellery made by Martita Hunt to the V&A.
Descriptive line
Evening dress of nylon organza, Balenciaga, Paris, 1952
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Evening dress and coat (robe du soir)
Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972)
Paris
1952 and 1960
The gown shows Balenciaga's preference for stiff, matt fabrics, while the heavy satin coat epitomises the superb cut and monastic simplicity of his designs. Its only accent is a large glittering jet button.
Dress: nylon organza with velvet spots
Coat: satin with jet button
Dress given by Mrs Catherine Hunt; coat by Baroness Alain de Rothschild
V&A: T.116-1970; T.20-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Production Note
Date attributed by Mme. Jouve - former Balenciaga archivist
Materials
Velvet; Organza; Taffeta
Techniques
Weaving
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
