This fragment of lampas silk comes from a dalmatic in the Diozesanmuseum, Regensburg, part of a set of vestments in the Alte Kapelle, Regensburg, with a traditional but unsupported association with Emperor Henry VI (died 1197). The design in gold of gilt leather strip is composed of sino-islamic elements: islamic script, animals and small geometric designs; it was possibly woven in Greater Iran.
Physical description
Fragment of lampas silk (pannus tartaricus), from a vestment at Regensburg with coloured warp stripes and a pattern weft of gilt leather strip; design in gold composed of sino-islamic elements: islamic script, animals and small geometric designs. One selvedge intact. The bands contain three different groups of motifs, 1) an Arabic inscription (Glory victory and prosperity) the repetitions are separated by circles of interlaced ornament; 2) a lion, a phoenix, a deer and a tortoise in rectangular compartments, the second and fourth being enclosed by circles; 3) small diaper pattern and quatrefoils enclosing arabesque and foliated ornament.
At the top edge, on the rear, there is sewn, with running stitches, a strip of plain woven silk, presumably the remains of a lining.
Flat strip cut from single-sided gilt, probable vegetable tanned leather (or treated parchment?). The gilding was carried out with metal leaves hammered from pure, refined gold. The reverse side of the leather was lacquered.
Place of Origin
Central Asia (possibly, made)
China (possibly, made)
Date
1300-1350 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Pattern woven silk with gold gilded tanned leather
Dimensions
Height: 41.5 cm, Width: 36 cm unmounted, Height: 59 cm mounted, Width: 53 cm mounted, Depth: 4 cm mounted
Object history note
This fragment comes from a dalmatic in the Diozesanmuseum, Regensburg, formerly part of a set of vestments in the Alte Kapelle, Regensburg, with a traditional but unsupported association with Emperor Henry VI (d. 1197).
Fragment has no areas of compound weave.
Technical analysis of metal thread made by Dr. Marta Jaro, Hungarian National Museum in 15/08/2004.
Descriptive line
Lampas with arabic inscription and animals in bands, gilded leather strips
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
A.F. Kendrick. Catalogue of Muhammadan Textiles of the Medieval Period. London: 1924
no.993, pl.XXI
Exhibition History
Cangrande I della Scala - The Death and Funerary Goods of a Prince in the European Middle Ages (Museo del Castelvecchio)
Associated names
Henry VI
Production Note
Tentatively ascribed to Greater Iran.
Materials
Gold; Silk
Techniques
Plain weave; Tanning; Patterned weave; Hammered
Categories
Textiles; Ecclesiastical textiles
Collection code
T&F
