Not currently on display at the V&A

Chrysanthemums

Yukata
2003 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

In the latter half of the 1980s, the yukata, or summer kimono, began to make a comeback in Japan as casual summer wear amongst young women. Traditional versions were indigo and white, and whilst today there are no restrictions on the use of colour, the yukata has not witnessed any great variation in the basic design. The overwhelming majority employ some sort of traditional pattern such as a flower design or water pattern, with the odd ice cream cone or goldfish. In 2002, the British design team Bentley & Spens collaborated with Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Limited to produce a range of textiles for the Japanese market. Bentley & Spens collaborated with Kawashima again in 2003 and for this Collection, they have refined their designs, simplying pattern and motif in line with the demands of yukata production.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleChrysanthemums (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Printed cotton
Brief description
Yukata, 'Chrysanthemums', printed and woven cotton, Bentley & Spens, British, 2003
Physical description
Summer yukata, or kimono, printed cotton. Pattern of yellow and grey chrysanthemums on a turquoise ground
Dimensions
  • Nape to hem length: 168cm
  • Sleeve edge to sleeve edge width: 134cm
Production typeMass produced
Marks and inscriptions
'Bentley and Spens London' (Label text)
Credit line
Given by Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Ltd.
Historical context
The modern kimono began to take shape in the Heian period (CE 794-1192). Since then the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono has remained essentially unchanged: a T-shaped, straight-lined robe that falls to the ankles, with a collar, and sleeves that fall to the wrist. The sleeves also fall from the wrist to approximately the waist if the arms are held straight out (though some styles have extremely long sleeves: the sleeves of some kimono fall almost to the floor). The robe is wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right, and secured by a wide belt (called an obi) which is tied in the back)
Production
Reason For Production: Retail
Subject depicted
Summary
In the latter half of the 1980s, the yukata, or summer kimono, began to make a comeback in Japan as casual summer wear amongst young women. Traditional versions were indigo and white, and whilst today there are no restrictions on the use of colour, the yukata has not witnessed any great variation in the basic design. The overwhelming majority employ some sort of traditional pattern such as a flower design or water pattern, with the odd ice cream cone or goldfish. In 2002, the British design team Bentley & Spens collaborated with Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Limited to produce a range of textiles for the Japanese market. Bentley & Spens collaborated with Kawashima again in 2003 and for this Collection, they have refined their designs, simplying pattern and motif in line with the demands of yukata production.
Collection
Accession number
T.16-2004

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Record createdDecember 22, 2004
Record URL
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