Not currently on display at the V&A

Shan Weft-Ikat Cloth

ca. 1885 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Rectangular shan longyi weft-ikat cloth formed of two identical panels hand stitched along the weft edge. The upper part has a thin check pattern in white and red, yellow and pale blue on a light brown ground. The lower part has many horizontal bands, broad and narrow, decorated with a great variety of geometrically-treated motives including fret, hook, dot, cloud and floral motives, chiefly in white, purple and shades of green, yellow and red. Dyed silk with woven in bands of interlocking tapestry, supplementary weft, plain weft and weft-ikat.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Dyed silk woven in bands of interlocking tapestry
Brief description
Rectangular shan longyi weft-ikat cloth of silk, Inle Lake, Shan States, Burma, ca. 1885
Physical description
Rectangular shan longyi weft-ikat cloth formed of two identical panels hand stitched along the weft edge. The upper part has a thin check pattern in white and red, yellow and pale blue on a light brown ground. The lower part has many horizontal bands, broad and narrow, decorated with a great variety of geometrically-treated motives including fret, hook, dot, cloud and floral motives, chiefly in white, purple and shades of green, yellow and red. Dyed silk with woven in bands of interlocking tapestry, supplementary weft, plain weft and weft-ikat.
Dimensions
  • Length: 198cm
  • Width: 84cm
  • Length: 78in
  • Width: 35in
Style
Credit line
Purchased from Major General A. Wallace (Indian army) Wokingham Road, Wellington College Station, Berks
Object history
Extract from donor's letter September 4 1919:
" In 1886 I was present when we occupied the Southern Shan States of Upper Burmah and purchased some cloths in the villages near Fort Stedman, then the headquarter of the South Shan States Administration".
Historical context
Eleanor Gaudoin, a descendant of the royal family of the Shan State of Hsenwi, on a visit to the V&A Indian Study Rooms in 1995, made the following comments:
"The roots of shan silk or silk/cotton weft-ikat cloths are to be found in the Lanna/Lao Thai territory of northern Thailand. Lanna was a tribute nation to Burma for several centuries until its liberation in c.1780. There could have been a migration of weavers during that period. Otherwise weavers may have been brought back with the 90,000 Thai captives after the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767.

The most well know of the weft-ikat patterns are:
zin-me (Chiangmai) and (a chevron design).

Weaving was done by women within specialist weaving families in the Inle Lake regiion. The skill and patterns, carefully guarded, passed on from mother to daughter.

An agent or `travelling salesman' would then take the finished cloth from court to court or wealthy homes. The silk weft-ikat would not be sold directly at the bazaars.

The cloths would be fashioned into longyi (tubular skirts). A black cotton waistband would be attached to the top. The longyi would be worn with white cotton cross-over jackets fastened with jewelled buttons.
Production
Made in the neighbourhood of the Inle Lake, Yawngshwe State
Collection
Accession number
IM.33-1919

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Record createdNovember 8, 2004
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