Jewelled brassiere, probably worn by a member of Ram Gopal's dance company.

'Brassiere' of metal setting set with red and clear 'jewels'. The cups are separated by a lozenge motif from which hangs a star motif; from the star and lower edge of the cups hang red drop 'jewels'. Over the shoulders and from the sides are linked metal plates set with red and clear 'jewels' with small red drop jewels hanging from the sides. The shoulder straps meet at the back around a jewelled motif from which hangs a chain to attach to the side straps.

Given by the Trustees of the Ram Gopal Estate

The 'brassiere' was part of Ram Gopal's estate and was probably been worn one of his dancers, in performance. It was probably part of a general collection of jewellery and worn in several different dances.

Ram Gopal (1917-2003) and Uday Shankar, were the most important Indian dancers of the 20th century. Gopal built on Shankar's pioneering revival of Indian dance and its introduction to audiences both in Asia and the West, taking it one stage further. He remained faithful to the pure discipline, technique and ethos of Indian classical. but he also started to open out a deeper appreciation of Indian classical dance traditions, shrewdly tailored to Western audiences, using modern theatrical techniques and spectacular presentation. He widened audiences experiences by including music and other folk and classical styles alongside his own pieces. Each item was preceded by an explanation, enabling audiences to understand and appreciate what was, at that time, a very esoteric art form.
For three decades he was a major world star, with a glamour and charisma equal to any other major dance star of the period. He not only raised public awareness of the richness of Indian dance but worked with dancers trained in other dance forms, like Alicia Markova, thus setting a precedent in Britain for the current thriving and creative South Asian dance scene, which mixes classical Indian dance with other contemporary and classical dance styles to create something uniquely itself.
Each of Gopal's costumes was hand made and tailored to his own design. He spent huge sums on his costumes, which could be insured for as much as £25,000. Some were made of cloth of gold, woven and tailored in India; when it became worn, it was sent back to India, melted down and rewoven. His company, as this 'jewelled' brassiere shows, were equally magnificently dressed.

Ram Gopal was one of the most important dancers of the 20th century and certainly one of the most exotic theatre performers. He was a major figure in the revival of Indian dance and his spectacular theatrical presentations introduced it to audiences both in Asia and the West. He was proud of the authenticity of his music, costuming and style, shrewdly tailored his presentations to Western audiences, using modern theatrical techniques and spectacular presentation.
As this spectacular metal ‘brassiere’ indicates, all of Gopal’s company were as magnificently dressed as he. The metal is studded with paste jewels and the whole effect is extremely exotic. It must, however, have been very uncomfortable to wear, especially in a dance performance, and it may have been collected by Gopal as an example of original Indian costume to provide inspiration for his designers.

S.120-2004