Ram Gopal was one of the most important dancers of the 20th century and certainly one of the most exotic theatre performers. He was a major figure in the revival of Indian dance and his spectacular theatrical presentations introduced it to audiences both in Asia and the West. He was proud of the authenticity of his music, costuming and style, shrewdly tailored his presentations to Western audiences, using modern theatrical techniques and spectacular presentation.
This costume was worn by Gopal in The Eagle Dance, one of his most famous solos; in it he portrayed Garuda, the sacred golden eagle of Lord Vishnu, whose mission was to destroy the Naga (snake) people, for which Vishnu rewarded him with immortality. The costume is made of gold leather, cut into 'feathers' and lotus shapes, trimmed with brilliant blue, and under the stage lights would have shone with a sun-like radiance entirely fitted to a servant of a god.
Such costumes were expensive, some were insured for as much as £25,000, and they had to be carefully looked after. Thus, the wings and headdress for this costume had specially designed carrying cases to protect them on the long journeys between engagements.
Physical description
[Theatre costume] Brief waistcoat of velvet overlaid at the front and centre back with gold leather 'feathers', the front edge trimmed with blue 'jewels'. From the front lower edges hang graduated bright blue bobble fringe. The costume is lined with bright blue artificial silk. The waistcoat fastens at the lower front with cord ties.
[Theatre costume] Waistbelt of bright blue velvet, overlaid with open work gold metal lace, edged with gold cord, over which are large blue 'jewels' surrounded by gold Russia braid, and outer lines of gold Russia braid giving the impression of 'eyes'. At the front is a hanging panel gold leather 'feathers' set with blue 'jewels' and gold lotus motifs; at centre front is a decorative panel of gold leather overlaid with gold braid surrounding a large central blue 'jewel' surrounded by blue 'jewels'; from the sides and lower edges hangs long bright blue fringing. Linking the front and back panels are bold gold metal cords from which hang bright blue fringing. At the back is a panel of gold leather 'feathers' trimmed with gold lotus motifs, trimmed with bright blue fringing. The costume is lined with bright blue velvet and fastens under the front panel with hooks and bars and press stud.
[Theatre costume] Helmet formed of overlapping gold leather 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs; from the back hangs a long pale beige artificial silk fringe over which is a shorter gold metal fringe. Curving over the front of the helmet is an eagle with upstretched wings formed of gold leather 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs, with red 'jewels' for the eyes. The helmet fastens under the chin with elastic covered with small gold leather 'feathers' and a hook and bar, and is lined with black artificial silk and foam rubber padding.
[Theatre costume] Left arm wing formed back and front of overlapping gold leather 'feathers', the upper 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs. Attached are armbands to fit over upper arm, elbow and wrist of gold leather overlaid with gold metal openwork braid.
[Theatre costume] Right arm wing formed back and front of overlapping gold leather 'feathers', the upper 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs. Attached are armbands to fit over upper arm, elbow and wrist of gold leather overlaid with gold metal openwork braid.
[Theatre costume] Left arm wing formed back and front of overlapping gold leather 'feathers', the upper 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs. Attached are armbands to fit over upper arm, elbow and wrist of gold leather overlaid with gold metal openwork braid.
[Theatre costume] Right arm wing formed back and front of overlapping gold leather 'feathers', the upper 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs. Attached are armbands to fit over upper arm, elbow and wrist of gold leather overlaid with gold metal openwork braid.
[Theatre costume] Helmet formed of overlapping gold leather 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs; from the back hangs a long pale beige artificial silk fringe over which is a shorter gold metal fringe. Curving over the front of the helmet is an eagle with upstretched wings formed of gold leather 'feathers' trimmed with gold metal lotus motifs, with red 'jewels' for the eyes. The helmet fastens under the chin with elastic covered with small gold leather 'feathers' and a hook and bar, and is lined with black artificial silk and foam rubber padding.
Date
1966 (made)
Artist/maker
Jenny Levy Casperson (designed and made)
Materials and Techniques
[Theatre costume] Gold leather, paste jewels, wool fringing and artificial silk lining with cord ties.
[Theatre costume] Gold leather, velvet, gold lace, gold and metal cord, Russia braid, paste jewels and silk fringing
Dimensions
[Theatre costume] Height: 35 cm excluding fringe, Height: 64 cm including fringe, Width: 46 cm measured at widest point
[Theatre costume] Height: 61 cm including fringe, Width: 42 cm approximate
[Theatre costume] Height: 60 cm, Width: 30 cm, Depth: 40 cm
[Theatre costume] Height: 44 cm, Width: 110 cm
[Theatre costume] Height: 44 cm, Width: 110 cm
[Theatre costume] Height: 44 cm, Weight: 110 cm
[Theatre costume] Height: 44 cm, Width: 110 cm
[Theatre costume] Height: 60 cm, Width: 30 cm, Depth: 40 cm
Object history note
The Eagle Dance was one of Ram Gopal's most famous dances in which Garuda; the sacred golden eagle of Lord Vishnu swoops to earth to destroy the Naga (snake) people; Vishnu rewards him with the nectar of immortality.
Historical context note
Ram Gopal (1917-2003) and Uday Shankar, were the most important Indian dancers of the 20th century. Gopal built on Shankar’s pioneering revival of Indian dance and its introduction to audiences both in Asia and the West, taking it one stage further. He remained faithful to the pure discipline, technique and ethos of Indian classical. but he also started to open out a deeper appreciation of Indian classical dance traditions, shrewdly tailored to Western audiences, using modern theatrical techniques and spectacular presentation. He widened audiences experiences by including music and other folk and classical styles alongside his own pieces. Each item was preceded by an explanation, enabling audiences to understand and appreciate what was, at that time, a very esoteric art form.
For three decades he was a major world star, with a glamour and charisma equal to any other major dance star of the period. He not only raised public awareness of the richness of Indian dance but worked with dancers trained in other dance forms, like Alicia Markova, thus setting a precedent in Britain for the current thriving and creative South Asian dance scene, which mixes classical Indian dance with other contemporary and classical dance styles to create something uniquely itself.
Each of Gopal’s costumes was hand made and tailored to his own design. He spent huge sums on his costumes, which could be insured for as much as £25,000. Some were made of cloth of gold, woven and tailored in India; when it became worn, it was sent back to India, melted down and rewoven.
Descriptive line
Costume for the Eagle Dance worn by Ram Gopal (1912-2003)
Exhibition History
Theatre and Performance (Victoria and Albert Museum, Galleries 103 -106 01/01/2009-31/12/2009)
Materials
Silk; Wool; Metal; Leather; Velvet; Lace; Gold braid; Paste (glass); Cord; Synthetic silk; Foam rubber; Russia braid; Gold cord
Techniques
Glueing; Machine stitching; Hand stitching
Categories
Entertainment & Leisure; Stage costumes
Collection code
T&P
