Jacket
ca. 1965
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Costume for the leading male dancer. Short collarless sleeveless jacket of off white wild silk. Attached only on top of armhole are kimono half sleeves of gold tissue with a shoulder band of off white wild silk; all the edges of the sleeves and tabs edged with narrow gold looped fringe braid. Under each arm on the main body is an inset of fine off white silk, woven with stripes in a floral design. Fixed around the waist is a broad belt of the same fabric backed with petersham; attached to the left edge is a long strip to fall down centre front. On either hip, attached to the belt, is a sunray-pleated 'tail' of gold tissue, at the top of which is a circular cut panel, stitched into the sides of the 'tail' but left free at the lower edge to stick out when worn, of off white wild silk, edged at the lower edge with narrowlooped gold fringe braid. The neck is edged with a narrow piping of gold tissue. Across the back is a diagonal stripe of off white fine silk, woven with stripes in gold thread in a floral design, as on the belt. The jacket is lined with off white art silk. Elastic tabs to fasten onto buttons on leotard. The striped silk is a sari silk.
Object details
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | |
| Brief description | Collarless sleeveless jacket of off white wild silk for the leading male dancer in 'Bugaku', New York City Ballet, ca. 1965. |
| Physical description | Costume for the leading male dancer. Short collarless sleeveless jacket of off white wild silk. Attached only on top of armhole are kimono half sleeves of gold tissue with a shoulder band of off white wild silk; all the edges of the sleeves and tabs edged with narrow gold looped fringe braid. Under each arm on the main body is an inset of fine off white silk, woven with stripes in a floral design. Fixed around the waist is a broad belt of the same fabric backed with petersham; attached to the left edge is a long strip to fall down centre front. On either hip, attached to the belt, is a sunray-pleated 'tail' of gold tissue, at the top of which is a circular cut panel, stitched into the sides of the 'tail' but left free at the lower edge to stick out when worn, of off white wild silk, edged at the lower edge with narrowlooped gold fringe braid. The neck is edged with a narrow piping of gold tissue. Across the back is a diagonal stripe of off white fine silk, woven with stripes in gold thread in a floral design, as on the belt. The jacket is lined with off white art silk. Elastic tabs to fasten onto buttons on leotard. The striped silk is a sari silk. |
| Production type | Unique |
| Marks and inscriptions | ' Karinska / Paris New York ' (Woven trade label) |
| Credit line | Given by Cecil Beaton |
| Object history | Jacket for the leading male dancer in George Balanchine's ballet Bugaku. The ballet, with music by Toshiro Mayuzumi, was first performed by the New York City Ballet at the City Center of Music and Drama, New York on 20th March 1963. The scenery was designed by David Hays and the costumes were designed by Karinska. Allegra Kent and Edward Villella created the leading roles. The work has also entered the repertoires of other ballet companies, including the San Francisco Ballet and The Royal Ballet. The costume was given by the designer to Cecil Beaton, who gave it to the museum for inclusion in the Cecil Beaton Collection. Along with other Bugaku costumes given by Karinska, it was transferred to the collections of the V&A Theatre Museum in 1975. |
| Production | Reason For Production: Commission |
| Association | |
| Literary reference | Bugaku |
| Bibliographic references |
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | S.390F-1985 |
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| Record created | September 23, 2004 |
| Record URL |
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