Jacket
- Place of origin:
London (possibly, made)
Italy (possibly, made)
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
Hand-knitted in silk and silver-gilt wrapped silk, and lined with linen
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Order this image
Object Type
This jacket is a rare example of early 17th century informal dress. References to these garments in wills and wardrobe accounts show that they were worn by both men and women.
Materials & Making
The jacket is hand knit with coral pink and yellow silk, with silver-gilt thread. It is constructed of five rectangular panels, one for the back, one each for the two fronts and the sleeves. The seams are hand-sewn with silk thread and the whole garment is lined with blue linen. A series of regular stitch holes along the front edges of the lining on each front edge suggest that it originally fastened with hooks and eyes (since removed).
It was once thought that these jackets were produced on the early versions of the knitting frame. However research has shown that the frame was not developed enough in the early 17th century to produce purl stitches or such a fine gauge.
Design & Designing
Each rectangle of knitting bears a pattern of stylised scrolling floral motifs worked in yellow silk on coral. The shapes are further delineated by the use of purl stitch against a ground of stocking stitch, with a gauge of 17 stitches per inch. A border of basket stitch (squares of purl and stocking stitch) edges the lower hem and wrists.
Physical description
A long sleeved jacket of coral pink and gold knit in a pattern of stylized scrolling floral motifs. It is made up of rectangular panels, one for the back, one for each front and one for each sleeve, with a slit at each side seam and at each wrist. The jacket opens down the front; a series of regular stitch holes along the front edges of the lining suggest that it was once fastened with hooks and eyes (since removed). The jacket is worked in stocking stitch and purl in a gauge of 17 stitches per inch, with a border of basket stitch at the lower edge and at each wrist. The seams are sewn with silk thread and the whole garment is lined with blue linen.
Place of Origin
London; Italy
Date
ca. 1625-1650 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Hand-knitted in silk and silver-gilt wrapped silk, and lined with linen
Dimensions
Height: 61 cm
Width: 115 cm (with sleeves)
Dimensions checked: Measured; 21/11/2000 by KB
dims are marginally bigger than the template
Object history note
Possibly made in London or imported from Italy
Historical context note
This is a very informal type of garment worn during the late 16th and early 17th centuries, which never appears in visual images. Documentation refers to knitted jackets as 'night clothes', garments worn very informally, in the privacy of home. These seem to have been produced in workshops, knit in ensembles of rectangles, to be sewn up and fitted at home.
Descriptive line
A jacket knit of coral pink and silver-gilt silk, 1630s, English or Italian
Labels and date
British Galleries:
Although this jacket is made of expensive materials, it was a very informal style of garment, worn by both men and women. Documentation is sparse, but knitted jackets seem to have been produced in workshops. They were knitted in rectangles and sold in sets, to be sewn up at home.
Materials
Silk thread; Linen; Silk; Yarn
Techniques
Hand sewing; Knitting
Categories
Clothing; Fashion
Collection code
T&D
