Theatre Costume
1912
| Artist/Maker |
Harley Granville Barker's production of Twelfth Night in 1912 was one of a trio of his productions that helped revolutionise attitudes to Shakespearean production and design in the early 20th century. The bright colours and relative simplicity of the designs by Norman Wilkinson (1882-1934) were in complete contrast to the detailed, often cumbersome productions that were the legacy of 19th century realism.
The costume is of great extravagance. This fits in with Viola being the embassy of a rich lord paying court to his beloved. It required 5 5/6 yards of a magnificent silver and white brocade which cost £11.13s.4d (about £830 at 2008 prices), plus the cost of the superb brilliant pink lining. The total cost of the production was £619.7s.1d (about £45,000 at 2008 prices).
The effect of this coat over Viola's black and green doublet and breeches (see S.1356-1984) must have been spectacular to an audience used to the genteel tones of most Edwardian fashion. The severe simplicity was also in contrast to the frills and froth of many dresses of the period.
The costume is of great extravagance. This fits in with Viola being the embassy of a rich lord paying court to his beloved. It required 5 5/6 yards of a magnificent silver and white brocade which cost £11.13s.4d (about £830 at 2008 prices), plus the cost of the superb brilliant pink lining. The total cost of the production was £619.7s.1d (about £45,000 at 2008 prices).
The effect of this coat over Viola's black and green doublet and breeches (see S.1356-1984) must have been spectacular to an audience used to the genteel tones of most Edwardian fashion. The severe simplicity was also in contrast to the frills and froth of many dresses of the period.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | silver damask, satin. |
| Brief description | Overgown of silver brocade for Viola worn by Lillah McCarthy in 'Twelfth Night', Savoy Theatre, London, 1912 |
| Physical description | Sleeveless overgown of silk damask (main fabric of silver/gold silk satin with warm silver metal threads forming the pattern). Coat ends just below the knee and features a wide collar which extends down the centre front lines to the hem. Overgown is lined with cerise (shocking pink) silk satin. |
| Dimensions |
|
| Production type | Unique |
| Credit line | Given by the British Theatre Museum Association |
| Object history | Costume for Viola worn by Lillah McCarthy in William Shakespeare's play 'Twelfth Night' performed at the Savoy Theatre, London, 15th November 1912. The production was directed by Granville Barker and designed by Norman Wilkinson. The coat was part of Lillah McCarthy's collection and was given to the British Theatre Museum Association by Mrs R. B. Hetherington, through the Borough of Worthing Museum and Art Gallery, in October 1966. |
| Production | Reason For Production: Commission |
| Subject depicted | |
| Associations | |
| Literary reference | Twelfth Night |
| Summary | Harley Granville Barker's production of Twelfth Night in 1912 was one of a trio of his productions that helped revolutionise attitudes to Shakespearean production and design in the early 20th century. The bright colours and relative simplicity of the designs by Norman Wilkinson (1882-1934) were in complete contrast to the detailed, often cumbersome productions that were the legacy of 19th century realism. The costume is of great extravagance. This fits in with Viola being the embassy of a rich lord paying court to his beloved. It required 5 5/6 yards of a magnificent silver and white brocade which cost £11.13s.4d (about £830 at 2008 prices), plus the cost of the superb brilliant pink lining. The total cost of the production was £619.7s.1d (about £45,000 at 2008 prices). The effect of this coat over Viola's black and green doublet and breeches (see S.1356-1984) must have been spectacular to an audience used to the genteel tones of most Edwardian fashion. The severe simplicity was also in contrast to the frills and froth of many dresses of the period. |
| Other number | 1966/A/216 - BTMA accession number |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | S.1357-1984 |
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| Record created | August 25, 2004 |
| Record URL |
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