Not currently on display at the V&A

Coat

late 19th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Woman's long caftan type coat of embroidered and dyed cotton. The applied geometrical pattern of predominantly red, blue, white and yellow on a black ground extends down the opening in the front, along the edge of the side-openings below the waist, on the sleeves, and round the neck and sleeve-openings. On each shoulder is embroidered, in coloured cotton threads (partly in chain-stitch), a rosette with floral stem projections. A series of floral stems are embroidered, in similar colours and materials, along the lower end of the coat. The coat has long narrow sleeves and is fastened, on the breast, with an incised silver clasp, shaped like a rosette.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Dyed and embroidered cotton with cotton threads and incised silver, applique
Brief description
Woman's coat of embroidered and dyed cotton, Shan State, Burma, late 19th century
Physical description
Woman's long caftan type coat of embroidered and dyed cotton. The applied geometrical pattern of predominantly red, blue, white and yellow on a black ground extends down the opening in the front, along the edge of the side-openings below the waist, on the sleeves, and round the neck and sleeve-openings. On each shoulder is embroidered, in coloured cotton threads (partly in chain-stitch), a rosette with floral stem projections. A series of floral stems are embroidered, in similar colours and materials, along the lower end of the coat. The coat has long narrow sleeves and is fastened, on the breast, with an incised silver clasp, shaped like a rosette.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem length: 106cm
  • Cuff to cuff, across the shoulders width: 131cm
  • Across sleeves length: 42in
  • Across sleeves width: 52in
Object history
Acquired from Lady Scott - wife of Sir James George Scott - the great late 19th early 20th century English explorer, administrator and writer on Burma.

A distinctive long black coat slit up the sides and fastened at the breast with an incised silver clasp worn by a woman of the Lahu/Muhso ethnic group of the Shan States south east Burma. Of cotton bordered with geometrical patterns of red, blue, white and yellow in applique and embroidery work.
Historical context
The Lahus or Muhso/Muser are a Tibeto-Burman ethnic family who probably originated in Tibet and are found in the rugged Shan hills around Kengtung in south east Burma. A tribal people controlled by village chiefs assisted by the priest-shaman. The name Muhso/Muser means "hunter" and suggests their skill in the chase. The Lahus are divided into a number of related sub-groups, including the Black Lahu and the Red Lahu. They are great weavers and are famed for their intricate basketwork. Practicing slash and burn agriculture the Lahus cultivate rice, and chilli and opium, which they smoke themselves or sell as a cash crop.

The long coat is the particular garment of all of the Lahu - both men and women - decorative elements distinguishing the different sub- groups. It is worn over either a pair of pants or a sarong together with a colourful shoulder bag (see IM 146-1929) and a black turban.
Bibliographic reference
Sylvia Fraser-Lu pp. 96 and 98, Fig. 92 R.A. Innes "Costumes of Upper Burma and the Shan States" collections at Bankfield Museum, Halifax, pl IV, p. 31
Collection
Accession number
IM.145-1929

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Record createdJuly 6, 2004
Record URL
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