Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

late 19th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Woman's jacket of coarse cotton brocaded in silk and cotton, embroidered with silk and applied with cotton strips.

White, long sleeved, and of double thickness. The greater part of the back is brocaded with a key-and-lozenge pattern, in pink and brown, on a white ground. The embroidery, in pink and dark-brown, is on the long wide sleeves and forms a more elaborate geometrical pattern of closely set lozenges with four-petalled blossoms at the points of junction. The applied cotton strips, in buff and dark-blue, are above and below the embroidery. Those in dark-blue have a petal pattern formed of applied pieces of coarse white cotton. There is a square-cut falling 'sailor' collar composed of strips of coarse cloth in buff and two shades of dark-blue.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton brocaded in silk and cotton, embroidered with silk and applied with cotton, dyed
Brief description
Woman's jacket of cotton brocaded in silk and cotton, with embroidered silk, Shan, late 19th century
Physical description
Woman's jacket of coarse cotton brocaded in silk and cotton, embroidered with silk and applied with cotton strips.

White, long sleeved, and of double thickness. The greater part of the back is brocaded with a key-and-lozenge pattern, in pink and brown, on a white ground. The embroidery, in pink and dark-brown, is on the long wide sleeves and forms a more elaborate geometrical pattern of closely set lozenges with four-petalled blossoms at the points of junction. The applied cotton strips, in buff and dark-blue, are above and below the embroidery. Those in dark-blue have a petal pattern formed of applied pieces of coarse white cotton. There is a square-cut falling 'sailor' collar composed of strips of coarse cloth in buff and two shades of dark-blue.
Dimensions
  • Length: 91.5cm
  • Width: 176.5cm
  • Length: 36in (approx.)
  • Across sleeves width: 69.5in
Object history
Acquired from Lady Scott - wife of Sir James George Scott - the great late 19th early 20th century English explorer, administrator and writer on Burma.
Jacket worn by a woman of the Miaotsu/Hmong ethnic group of South-East Shan States. Of coarse collton cloth, brocaded in silk and cotton, and futher decorated with silk embroidery and applied strips of cotton.
Historical context
The Miao-tsu (also called Hmong, Hmeng or Mieao) a Sino-Tibetan people who originally came from central China live in South-East Shan State on the borderlands of China, Laos and Thailand. They are now among the most prosperous of the hill peoples. Their working knowledge of Chinese has made them successful traders and they are among the most important opium cultivators in the region.
The Miaotsu/Hmong today are divided into different sub-groups and clans, according to peculiarities of dress and speech, such as the Blue Hmong, whose women weave the hemp skirts which they later dye indigo, and the White Hmong, (as here) who wear a white buttoned-up collared jacket with a wide decorated sash (see IM 150-1929) over their white kilt.
Bibliographic reference
Upper Burma Gazeteer, pp. 597-601; pl. XVI
Collection
Accession number
IM.149-1929

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Record createdJune 8, 2004
Record URL
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